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2011年4月20日星期三

Archive: Finance Unhip of American Apparel

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Illustration by Sophie Kern

By Allison Abell Schwartz

"Connected to" says Dov Charney, who, as the founder and CEO of American Apparel (APP), was the trend as much as anyone. From the company in a dorm at Tufts University in Medford, mass., he built an empire in the world of 280 stores by boldly leaping before mainstream fashion. Above and still once redone hipster wardrobe, feeling the application cycle for the neon nylon shorts and were lace-thong long before the competition. For better or for worse, he personified sleek aesthetics, risk of its business and is now facing the consequences - capricieux lenders and investors who are skeptical of his ability to supervise its own creation. American Apparel Division of trade less than 2 dollars, down from a peak of $16.80 in December 2007. The company is on the point to be removed from the list of the Amex's New York Stock Exchange (NYX) because it was late in filing quarterly reports, and last week his accountant, Deloitte & Touche, quit, saying: American Apparel 2009 numbers may not be reliable. Mounting problems suggest that the company may now need to management more sophisticated that its controversial founder can muster.

Charney, 41, admits recent problems have tested him - "he has been a major sweat, true hard work" - but insists he he will paste and that no there is no numbering rear ambition. His plan is dive directly in the storm, to double the company's sales of 11,500 employees over the next six years by the improvement of productivity and in implementing the best technology to move faster product factory of Los Angeles in the company stores. On the road, American Apparel, which owns and operates its own stores, could also sell its products through other retailers.

The greatest challenge of all may be stylistic. After the world of 18 to 30 years in a variety of T-shirts and leggings, still ranked among the best sellers of the company, outfitting American Apparel will preppy, plunging in clothing more sophisticated as the blazersa pleated pants, unisex shirts and more formal lace tops. "Kids are away piercings," says Charney. "We want to grow old with our client." We want to be a traditional American clothier.

Even if American Apparel grew, Charney, which owns 53% of the society and dresses exclusively in its own product, socks and underwear, kept small and personal management. It makes it a priority to browse its plant of almost every day, speaking to employees, manipulation of the fabrics and see clothes made, a process said takes more than two hours of his time. His mobile number is available to all employees, he said, and he is proud of himself on his return from all calls. He spent most of his time with a circle of about 15 people who help him to look at tissue and assess new models.

Recently, however, is much less on fabric of finance. The threat of NYSE Amex delete American Apparel could become reality if he fails to file his latest quarterly report by 16 August, the second delay in a little more than a year. The delay arose from renegotiations on the second-Lien with Lion Capital loan. Which has since been settled, but another problem burst into the Deloitte American Apparel warned public view certain information had brought to its attention, that, if the object of an inquiry, may affect the reliability of the financial statements of the company 2009. Charney says confident that accounting issues will be corrected before the deadline.

Lion Capital, a London-based private investment capital firm accepted in March 2009 the American Apparel $ 80 million from loan to expire 31 December 2013. Under the agreement, Lion received detachable warrants amounting to 16 million shares of common shares of the company, the property equal to approximately 18 per cent.


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American Apparel Gets the Supervision of an adult

By Matt TownsendE:\GG工具\GG发布\data\3\2\1117_mz_21compstaff.jpg

Personal newcomer had earlier licensing success at Calvin Klein Elizabeth Weinberg for Bloomberg Businessweek

A recent conference call with the managers of store of American Apparel (APP), someone has asked how resolve a printer. Embattled founder and CEO Dov Charney, whose company has lost $ 86 million in 2010 and disclosed last month that a cash crunch he could tilt in bankruptcy, conveyed that he would be in it. "He should have said ' I will have someone else do it,'" said Martin Staff, an Executive of clothing veteran introduced in the month as head of business development. "It is the conversion of a small business to a large company, and I think that there is still much to learn.

On the insistence of the creditors, Charney has recently brought with professional management. In addition to staff, a Manager experienced in Ralph Lauren (RL) and Calvin Klein (PVH), former head of Blockbuster Financial Officer Thomas Casey is acting President. The company was also named John Luttrell Financial Director, a position he held previously at the Gap (GPS) string Old Navy. Staff said that american Apparel is promising. "I don't mean it's easy solutions," he said, but this fruit is almost on the ground. ?

Charney has already shaken by the impact of Federal repression 2009 on undocumented workers that resulted in the departure of 2,500 employees of American California garment factories. He says that production due to this interruption of staffing problems are to blame for much of the recent crisis of American Apparel. "We did through the worst," said Charney.

Staff plans to take the brand T-shirts and clothing casual beyond its 273 stores, as it did to Calvin Klein in the 1990s. He was the designer goods in other retailers and license contracts for everything from lingerie aftershave. "I have great respect for his talent," said Klein. "It is capable of running a business, and he has the experience of the implementation of all aspects."

This week, staff said that he had met leaders of top retailers of range, as it does the name on the sale of American Apparel clothing. The company already provides its goods in the Galeries Lafayette in Paris and Selfridges in London, and two luxury chains want to put the goods in addition to their stores, said staff. Its large potential also holds is trade, said. It generated more than a quarter of 532 million dollars of the company in revenue last year primarily selling blank T-shirts for screen printers, who put logos on them for sports teams, businesses and special events. Said staff received interests of chains of stores and concurrent mode marks capacity surplus factory to use American Apparel, in part because its factories based in the United States can turn orders around faster than its Asian rivals. Charney, said the company made clothing nearly $ 47 million last year but could increase production of $ 70 million.

New executives of the first American Apparel are consent majority shareholder Charney to avoid the minutiae of the business and focus on strategy, while his team is stronger inventory and logistics systems and financial controls in place. Said Casey overlooking the basics is typical of fast-growing companies: "it is a fairly simple change, but it is not done until it's done." Consultant Robin Lewis, said retail which saw staff for three decades, he has the "creative engineering and marketing" to revive American Apparel. Then, Lewis said, "they did hire as CEO."

The bottom line: American Apparel recently introduces managers to reorganize its business. It may still need an infusion of cash.

Townsend is a reporter for Bloomberg News.

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2011年4月9日星期六

Sidney Lumet, Director of the American Movie classics, dies at 86

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His stepdaughter, Leslie Gimbel, said the cause was lymphoma.

“While the goal of all movies is to entertain,” Mr. Lumet once wrote, “the kind of film in which I believe goes one step further. It compels the spectator to examine one facet or another of his own conscience. It stimulates thought and sets the mental juices flowing.”

Social issues set his own mental juices flowing, and his best films not only probed the consequences of prejudice, corruption and betrayal, but also celebrated individual acts of courage.

In his first film, “12 Angry Men” (1957), he took his cameras into a jury room where the pressure mounted as one tenacious and courageous juror, played by Henry Fonda, slowly convinced the others that the defendant on trial for murder was, in fact, innocent. (Justice Sonia M. Sotomayor of the United States Supreme Court said the film had an important influence on her law career.)

Almost two decades later, Mr. Lumet’s moral sense remained acute when he ventured into satire with “Network” (1976), perhaps his most acclaimed film. Based on Paddy Chayefsky’s biting script, the film portrays a television anchorman who briefly resuscitates his fading career by launching on-air tirades against what he perceives as the hypocrisies of American society.

The film starred William Holden, Faye Dunaway and Peter Finch as the commentator turned attack dog whose proclamation to the world at large — “I’m as mad as hell and I’m not going to take this anymore!” — became part of the American vernacular.

“Network” was nominated for 10 Academy Awards, including best film and best director, and won four: best actor (Mr. Finch), best actress (Ms. Dunaway), best original screenplay (Mr. Chayefsky) and best supporting actress (Beatrice Straight).

Honorary Oscar

Yet for all the critical success of his films and despite the more than 40 Academy Award nominations they drew, Mr. Lumet (pronounced loo-MET) never won an Oscar for directing, though he was nominated four times. (The other nominations were for “12 Angry Men,” “Dog Day Afternoon” and “The Verdict.”)

Only in 2005 did the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences present him with an honorary Academy Award. Manohla Dargis, writing in The New York Times, called it a “consolation prize for a lifetime of neglect.”

In 2007, in an interview that was videotaped to accompany this obituary online, Mr. Lumet was asked how it felt to receive an Academy Award at long last. He replied, “I wanted one, damn it, and I felt I deserved one.”

That he was more a creature of New York than of Hollywood may have had something to do with his Oscar night disappointments. For Mr. Lumet, location mattered deeply, and New York mattered most of all. He was the quintessential New York director.

“Locations are characters in my movies,” he wrote. “The city is capable of portraying the mood a scene requires.”

He explored New York early on in “The Pawnbroker” (1964), the story of a Holocaust survivor, played by Rod Steiger, numbed and hardened against humanity by the horrors he has endured, who deals with racketeers in his Harlem pawnshop until his conscience is reawakened by a vicious crime on his doorstep.

‘Serpico’

The city loomed large in Mr. Lumet’s several examinations of the criminal justice system. Police corruption particularly fascinated him, beginning with “Serpico” (1973). The film, based on a book by Peter Maas, was drawn from a real-life drama involving two New York City police officers, David Durk and Frank Serpico, who told David Burnham, a reporter for The New York Times, that they had ample evidence of police graft and corruption.

Publication of their story led to the mayoral appointment of a commission to investigate the charges and ultimately to major reforms. Both the book and the film concentrated on Detective Serpico, played by Al Pacino, and his efforts to change the system. Mr. Pacino’s performance brought him an Oscar nomination.

Mr. Lumet returned to the theme in 1981 with “Prince of the City,” for which he shared screenwriting credit with Jay Presson Allen. Based on the book by Robert Daley, the film dealt with an ambitious detective, portrayed by Treat Williams, who goes undercover to gather evidence for an investigative commission and who winds up alienated and alone after being manipulated into destroying the lives and careers of many of those around him.

Mr. Lumet focused on criminals, rather than the police, in “Dog Day Afternoon” (1975), telling the story (again, based on fact) of a botched attempt to rob a Brooklyn bank. Mr. Pacino again starred, this time as Sonny, the leader of an amateurish gang of bank robbers whose plans go awry and who winds up taking hostages and demanding jet transport to a foreign country. It turns out that Sonny, although he has a wife at home, had planned the robbery to pay for his boyfriend’s sex-change operation. In 2009, the film was added to the National Film Registry by the Library of Congress.

New York, or at least a fantasy version of it, was even the backdrop for Mr. Lumet’s most uncharacteristic film, “The Wiz,” his 1978 musical version of the “The Wizard of Oz” starring Michael Jackson and Diana Ross. Roundly panned, it was also a box-office failure.

By the time he finished shooting “Night Falls on Manhattan” in 1996, Mr. Lumet had made 38 films, 29 of them on location in New York City. That film, written by Mr. Lumet and based on another Daley novel, “Tainted Evidence,” once again looked at the justice system as it moved from a shootout with drug dealers into a revealing courtroom trial.

The courthouse was one of Mr. Lumet’s favorite arenas for drama, beginning with “12 Angry Men.” He returned to it again in “The Verdict” (1982), with a screenplay by David Mamet and a cast led by Paul Newman as a down-at-the-heels lawyer who redeems himself and his career when he represents a malpractice victim in a legal battle with a hospital.

But Mr. Lumet’s concerns could also range more broadly, to issues of national survival itself. One of the most sobering films of the cold war era was his 1964 adaptation of Eugene Burdick and Harvey Wheeler’s novel, “Fail-Safe,” a taut examination of the threat of accidental nuclear war, with Henry Fonda as the president of the United States and a young Larry Hagman as his Russian-speaking interpreter. The film concluded with a harrowing suggestion of an atomic blast on American soil, rendered as a series of glimpses of ordinary life — children playing, pigeons taking wing — simply stopping. The scenes were from the streets of New York.

Sidney Lumet was born on June 25, 1924, in Philadelphia to Baruch Lumet and Eugenia Wermus, both actors in Yiddish theater. His father was born in Poland and moved his family to New York when Sidney was a baby and joined the Yiddish Art Theater. By the time he was 4, Sidney was appearing onstage with his father, and he went on to make his Broadway debut in 1935 as a street kid in Sidney Kingsley’s “Dead End.” He appeared in several more Broadway shows, including Maxwell Anderson’s “Journey to Jerusalem” in 1940, in which he played the young Jesus.

After wartime service as a radar technician in the Far East, Mr. Lumet returned to New York and started directing Off Broadway and in summer stock. His big break came in 1950, when he was hired by CBS and became a director on the television suspense series “Danger.” Other shows followed, including the history series “You Are There.”

His career soared in 1953, when he began directing original plays for dramatic series on CBS and NBC, including “Studio One,” “Playhouse 90” and “Kraft Television Theater,” eventually adding some 200 productions to his credits. He returned to the theater to direct Albert Camus’s “Caligula,” with Kenneth Haigh as the Roman emperor, and George Bernard Shaw’s “Man and Superman,” among other plays.

Among the highlights of Mr. Lumet’s television years were a full-length production of Eugene O’Neill’s play “The Iceman Cometh,” with Jason Robards as the salesman Hickey, and “12 Angry Men,” which he directed for television before turning it into his first film.

Some of Mr. Lumet’s early films had their origin in the theater. He directed Anna Magnani and Marlon Brando in “The Fugitive Kind” (1960), an adaptation of Tennessee Williams’s play “Orpheus Descending”; he traveled abroad to film part of Arthur Miller’s “View From the Bridge” (1962) in Paris, with Raf Vallone, Maureen Stapleton and Carol Lawrence, completing the film on the Brooklyn waterfront; and he returned to the world of O’Neill to film “Long Day’s Journey Into Night” (1962), with Katharine Hepburn and Ralph Richardson as the tormented Tyrones. His 1968 adaptation of Chekhov’s “Sea Gull,” however, was generally deemed uneven despite a stellar cast that included James Mason, Simone Signoret and Vanessa Redgrave.

A trainload of stars turned out for Mr. Lumet’s 1974 adaptation of Agatha Christie’s “Murder on the Orient Express,” a project that took him abroad again, this time to Britain, France and Turkey, to film the famous whodunit in which the detective Hercule Poirot (Albert Finney) must single out a murderer from a crowd of suspects that included Lauren Bacall, Ingrid Bergman, Sean Connery and John Gielgud.

There was a run of less-than-successful films, including “Running on Empty” (1988), with Judd Hirsch and Christine Lahti as ’60s radicals still in hiding from the F.B.I. 20 years after participating in a bombing; the police drama “Q & A” (1990), with a screenplay by Mr. Lumet, about a racist New York detective (played by Nick Nolte); and “Critical Care” (1997), a satiric jab at the American health care system.

Return to Television

In 1995, Mr. Lumet published a well-received memoir, “Making Movies,” in which he summed up his view of directorial style: “Good style, to me, is unseen style. It is style that is felt.”

He returned to television in 2001 as executive producer, principal director and one of the writers of a new courtroom drama for cable television, “100 Centre Street” (the title was the address of the Criminal Court Building in Lower Manhattan). The series, which ran for two seasons on A&E, had an ensemble cast, with Alan Arkin as an all-too-forgiving judge known as Let-’Em-Go Joe.

The director seemed immune to advancing age. Before long, he was behind the camera again. “Find Me Guilty” (2006), which starred Vin Diesel, was a freewheeling account of the events surrounding the federal prosecution of a notorious New Jersey crime family.

And he marked his 83rd year with the 2007 release of his last feature film, “Before the Devil Knows You’re Dead,” the bleakly riveting story of two brothers (Philip Seymour Hoffman and Ethan Hawke) propelled by greed into a relentless cycle of mayhem. The film drew raves.

Mr. Lumet’s first three marriages — to the actress Rita Gam, Gloria Vanderbilt and Gail Jones, the daughter of Lena Horne — ended in divorce. He married Mary Gimbel in 1980. She survives him. Besides his stepdaughter, Ms. Gimbel, he is also survived by two daughters he had with Ms. Jones, Amy Lumet and Jenny Lumet, a screenwriter; a stepson, Bailey Gimbel; nine grandchildren and a great-grandson. Mr. Lumet also had a home in East Hampton, on Long Island.

Ms. Dargis called Mr. Lumet “one of the last of the great movie moralists” and “a leading purveyor of the social-issue movie.” Yet Mr. Lumet said he was never a crusader for social change. “I don’t think art changes anything,” he said in The Times interview. So why make movies? he was asked.

“I do it because I like it,” he replied, “and it’s a wonderful way to spend your life.”


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2011年4月3日星期日

An American drawn to help, his Ivorian home - Los Angeles Times

Ivory Coast fightingForces loyal prepare Ivory Coast, where French troops have taken over by the airport to Alassane Ouattara for the battle in Abidjan. (Legnan Koula, EPA / 4 April 2011)Reporting of Abidjan, C?te d'Ivoire-

Two months ago, the Americans had a quiet s life in New Jersey with his three children, a nice car and his own company. He is now in the war.

But a computer mouse, no trigger strokes his finger. And instead of lots slung belts of ammunition, he swings an e-Mail Inbox full, atrocities.

The Ivorian native returned to his home in the name of democracy. He wound up in the middle of a war between the militias loyal to the two men, the power in this west African State claim: current President Laurent Gbagbo and former opposition leader Alassane Ouattara, the internationally recognised winner of last fall's presidential election.

Many people in Ivory Coast know like to fight. Ouattara's forces have an offensive to take Gbagbo from power started and Sunday's battles intensified in Abidjan, as a commercial centre of the country with people in many areas, not in a position to leave their homes. Heavy fighting continued around the Presidential Palace, the State television station RTI and a military base. Port Bouet airport took over French troops.

But only a handful of technical experts here know the tools of a modern propaganda war: such as a TV channel from scratch established encrypt the enemy TV signal, jam, his radio signal or created a TV satellite connection. And most of them work for Gbagbo.

So, the American, who has a high-tech mobile communications company in the United States, which is active in Africa, the call was given. He would return to Ivory Coast, Ouattara an information war fighting, that he was to lose to help?

The Americans insist on anonymity fear of the violence against his family, some of them in Abidjan, which has seen their narrow dirt alleys become a killing field.

"they are actually trying to figure out, which helps" Ouattara, says the American, 45, the left Ivory Coast for 30 years and is a friend of the President-designate.

Prior to the American on board Ouattara had accused rebels of the massacres no presence on television during Gbagbo the State television station and that the United Nations was guilty of genocide claimed to kill Ivorians conspiracy with France and install an alien, to govern the country. Ouattara's fighter was keeping the station Thursday but Gbagbo's fighters took it back and used on young militia against death for Gbagbo it calls.

Gbagbo has also blocked Pro-Ouattara newspaper distribution and stopped means mobile phone SMS messages - which most people in Africa and organize rallies.

The TV station, radio television ivoirienne, "Helped spur Wheelback" - the abuses by frequent indications of quality to the violence against UN peacekeepers, west African nationals and Ouattara supporters, a March 15 report by human rights watch charged.

"Television," the American says, "is more dangerous than a weapon."

Caught with Ouattara and his Government of Gbagbo forces in Abidjan's Golf Hotel since December the Americans took over a restaurant in the hotel and turned it into a pro-Ouattara television station.

The Americans set up a FM Radio Studio and created a satellite link, more difficult for Gbagbo, scramble as the terrestrial channel.

It is a daily battle of mind signals from broadcasting on the same frequency as Gbagbo's experts try to scramble Ouattara. "I try, the next step assume" he says.

The American flicks through his e-Mail Inbox, his fingers tap the down and until arrows impatiently, until he finds an alert in it with cell phone video loaded by two men down from the tyres and burnt alive as police stand by and watch.

"When this guy dying, he wanted out." "You him again in the fire to put", says the Americans, shows the scene. Then he pulls video of an other atrocity, Pro-Gbagbo militias queries a fear dealers in Northern Ivory Coast and then the head with a brick busting. (Human rights watch has said that both sides have committed atrocities but have been the vast majority of Pro-Gbagbo forces.)

He scrolls down through hundreds of messages, many with such grisly installations.

"It is frightening." It says heartless, "he.""I was here when I was 15 and I saw something like never before."


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